Level 4
Project 1

(c) Jerry Davis 2005

music
"Okie From Muskogee"

-------------------- Flat-Link Neck Chain or Flat-Link Bracelet ----------------------
Materials:

7 ft 16 ga ss wire
6 in 12 ga ss wire
Med or easy solder
Solder pick
Paste flux (Handi or Stav Silv)
Paint thinner 2oz
Tooth brush handle
Spray flux (denatured alcohol/Borax)
Liquid flux (denatured alcohol/Borax)
Roll mill or hammer
Jeweler's saw
Torch
Quilting pins and "T" pins
Glass jar with lid (3 to 6 oz)

16 gauge round wire- 24-inch neck chain requires about 60 inches or 5 ft.       16 ga wire is 7.5 ft/oz      Plus the cost of a fastener of your own design or bought fastener.   I like to make my own fastener from left over wire of heavier gauge and you may want to do the same.

If you would rather build the flat link bracelet then consider the following:

6-inch bracelet made the same way requires about 12 inches of 16-ga wire

I will furnish the chemicals for the patina and seal if needed.  I will cut the jump ring links for you and show you a method of texture with roll mill.  If you want to build the jump rings ahead of time  the wire link is 1” when unrolled.  Solder all the rings and elongate them and clean.

Instructions:

Wind 55 to 60 turns of 16 wire on 7mm dowel for the chain flat link necklace.  Cut the curl of wire into jump rings.  Clean and solder all rings with easy or medium solder.  Elongate the links leaving the joint half way the length of the ring so the joint is easy to reach. Use techniques shown by instructor to roll and texture the links until all are completed.   Use a jeweler's saw to cut through the solder point at exactly the point of contact of the two points of the jump ring.  Cut a few at at a time and begin to assemble the links in chain making fashion.   Solder the cut link back together with it's own solder after adding two unsoldered links.  Continue the joining process until the chain is proper length.  Clean any joints that may need attention.  Put chain in tumbler to clean and burnish.  Build an "S" fastener or supply a bought one of your choice.  If you want a patina on the chain then let instructor know.


Summary of steps:

(1) Wind wire
(2) Cut into jump rings
(3) Clean and solder all jump rings
(4) Elongate rings - keep solder joint in long stretch between curves
(5) Align elongated rings vertically and parallel on wide masking tape (see example)
(6) Run rings through mill until elongated to satisfactory length and thickness.
(7) Peal rings out of tape
(8) Soak in paint thinner
(9) Clean in soapy hot water
(10) Saw through old solder joints on a few of the rings
(11) Begin a standard chain making process of assemble of three rings and solder the middle one.
(12) Repeat step 10 until chain is complete.
(13) Build "S" fastener or other fastener
(14) Tumble as needed to finish

If you want round links with a hammer texture then skip step 4 and hammer rings until you are happy with the texture. This is not easy to hold and hammer the rings but you can develop a system and get the job done if you want to bad enough.   Pick up process with step 10.

 A simple clasp:

A 14 or 16 gauge wire works well. Melt the ends of the wire. Bend it like the drawing and hammer to harden it.  

(Click to enlarge)

                                          

Links can be rolled flat in a roll mill or with the use of a hammer.  The ball of a chasing hammer can put in good texture.

 

 

Other Project Instructions